Empress Market Part 4

Becoming a bit of a series. Empress 1 through 4....
Anyway Fahim, Wanna and I finally got our first day at the market and it went well. We had a good idea of what we wanted. But the usual thing, once there things seemed to be a little different. Fahim placed the first section on the uTube.

Fahim does Empress Market

Wanna's collection of clips

The best part was chatting to everyone and Fahim speaking Urdu made such a difference. I am sure we will end up with some good stuff. Will try and do some more this week.
The Dawn new paper competition ends shortly. We want in.
So constructive comments to make it all better ....please and more please..................

Empress Market Part 3

The short video is slowly, I mean slowly moving forward. Check earlier Empress Market entries. I went down to the market this morning and took a few site shots. It was about 09.00am and things were just starting up. Fabulous array of traders and rickshaw drivers etc getting organised for the day. Here in this posting you have some fabulous shots of the good side of Empress Market. I know it is easy to write about these places and make it all sound so 'pretty' and so forth. However a friend chatted with me today (thanks Mac) and suggested/requested I try and portray more of the real feelings about visiting and being in such places. He's got a good point and I've decided therefore to add a bit more to this posting and try to explain what he meant. When you look at these pictures you all see an array of colours and a generally smiling and happy set of people going about their daily business with little or no mention by me of the dirt, squaller, rancid smells, piles of shit etc which you have to step over to get anywhere, and far less, any comment by me, on the generally poor live style of so many of them ( life style being an exaggeration by any stretch of the definition). You can be forgiven therefore after reading my Blogs for assuming life in Karachi is not so bad. Well for some like me it's great, but it is not so good for most, and for a vast majority of souls working in and around the market area its tough, uncompromising and I imagine downright depressing.
So during the next few posting I think I will make a determined departure from my usual topics and put in an effort and concentrate on a few of the environmental and social aspects to life in Karachi. A sort of 'these are the bad side of things'. I'll be going back to Empress market as a starter, and will try in a very realistic fashion to capture the 'other side' of it all. Hygiene or lack thereof will be a predominant feature. Could be I do a 'nice' video of Empress Market and maybe a second one as if to say there are several sides to Karachi. Good and definitely not so good. I've stayed away from it thinking readers don't want to know, and I've been happy to write about good stuff as well, but, now maybe it's time to look at the 'dark side'.
What do you think? Do you agree? If you've managed to read this far please give me some feed back on this aspect. Thanks.(p.s. that's what the comments box is for!!!). Look forward to hearing from you.

Chairs

We had a walk round the side streets of Saddar Market today looking for furniture etc. Plenty to see and an amazing display of ingenuity by a lot of industrious workers. Amazing because walking on the main road you would never suspect that behind a little entrance was a labyrinth of alleyways and hundreds of tiny shops all making a living. The products range from office chairs being recovered to mending hand operated sewing machines. And in the middle of all this was a printers. We then found the local coffee shop. Will be back again soon.

Empress Market Part 2

Just got back to Karachi this afternoon. Will get onto the video/documentary starting tomorrow.

Empress Market Part 1

Fahim and I are planning to do a short documentary on Empress Market. By coincidence there is a mini documentary film competition sponsored by Dawn Newspaper. Entries by 21st May. So we have some work to do. Fahim if you're reading this......

Happy Weekend from Karachi

Was wondering round town today and took a few snaps of daily life.

"Just another Sunday"

(That was by the Small faces?, What was ?.. The title to this posting!!!)
We did not wake up till noon today. Must be the jet lag but most unusual. Still tired. We decided to get out of the apartment and have drive. Half way to the Hawks Bay area we turned back having decided we needed to get things from the market. Going along we passed a small nursery which seemed to be teeming with colourful potted plants. We swung in there and had a walk round. Lovely and made even more so as all the surrounding area was dry, dusty and very sandy.







The old chap who showed around made out he did not understand English. However after trying several times to grope with Wanna he finally let out an apology. Yes in English! So we left him to it. No tip.







Finished off with a try at 10 pin bowling. Only the 2 of us so not much of a fun event really. I do think anything like 10 pin bowling really needs a crowd.

Sunday Shopping

I'm not one for shopping but the Defence Area near our house has a weekly Sunday and Tuesday Market. Whats for sale? Everything except meat and livestock. Even found someone selling secondhand laptops.

The main things for sale are fruit and vegetables and kitchen stuff and loads of cloth and garments. Not so different to the larger town markets of UK in places in Norwich etc. Well quite a difference really. Major difference being the people and the constant dust. The whole atmosphere surrounds and engulfs you with different sounds and sights. A whole new atmosphere which is so difficult to recount on paper. Its so much the smells and fragrances which seem to pass you by as you walk along. The people, well they are all so friendly and not in an aggressive 'selling stuff' type of way. Happy to chat and let you look at their goods knowing you will not buy. Along the tiny avenues between the stalls are the ladies in their black garb, the men doing the selling. There were a few foreigners around, some clearly European and some looked Asian, probably Chinese or Thai. In our walking around we did not see one lady, not one, doing any of the selling. Here this seems the norm with men in all the shops, markets and doing all the work. Even down to selling women's clothing. I saw one chap selling woolly tights! And women buying!!!! I did not take a picture.

Makes you wonder that if you are a women in Pakistan, and not married, especially without family, then how do you set about trying to earn a living. It must be next to impossible. Something I am going to find out a bit more about.

We had about an hour there. Bought some vegetables and fruits. Also torch batteries. All the time you are pestered by small boys carrying empty shopping bags offering to do your carrying of stuff. We kept saying 'No gulli' (no boy thanks), as I was perfectly capable of carrying a half kilo of veg and 6 grapefruit myself! If is got heavy Wanna was with me. Hope she does not read this! Exciting morning!!!!!!

No problem with it at all, it was fun. Got us out of the house and some fresh air. Now home for a big lunch, TV and a cold beer.

State of Emergency and Camels

I got home planning on writing a short Blog input to say at last, I got a few photos of camels!!

But while sitting here I was also flicking through the TV channels. Just watched Arsenal and Man U. Other channels were not working properly so I decided to call the provider. But and this is strange I first checked BBC on the Web. No real reason. Front news 'State of Emergency in Pakistan' and all foreign TV channels are off. Well Mr BBC you are wring I;m watching it now. But we'll see how it pans out. All quiet in Karachi. But tomorrow will be the time to find out what it is all about.

_________________________
BBC News
Saturday 03 November 2007, 16:33 GMT 16:33 UK

Musharraf imposes emergency rule
Pakistan's President Pervez Musharraf declares emergency rule, as police surround the Supreme Court confining the judges to the building.
Profile: Pervez Musharraf
Emergency rule: Your views
Soldiers on streets

So there you have it. We'll see tomorrow.

_________________________

Now back to the Camel.... Qassir my driver is credited with the photos. As you can see they are lumbering beasts taking on the same role as the donkeys. They are everywhere on the main streets in and around the port. I am possibly the only one who takes any notice of them. I also asked Qassir what happens to the donkeys and camels when they get old or become incapacitated? Answer was not forthcoming but sadly my conclusion was that they work till they drop!!! I intend to ask a few more people to see if they can provide a clearer somewhat more specific answer. I'll let you what I find out but I suspect people in Karachi are to busy just surviving to worry about the retirement of donkeys and camels.

Hallowe'en

First of November already. (only 54 day till Christmas). I've been back in Karachi 10 days and it seems like yesterday that I was drinking a long cold Singha beer in Thailand. Good dream!!! It is only after 10 days, i.e. today that I got to go round to seeing Captain Farouqui (my shipping agent) and explain to him why I had not made it up to Karachi in my sailing boat.

We both had a cup of tea and discussed my adventure and mutually agreed it was not meant to be, and, that, well that was the end of it!! He, like me, put it down to an 'Act of God', "Gods wish" if you like. Divine intervention the reasoning of which we both assused ourselves will become apparent at some future time. Simple philosophy.

So what have I been up to apart, of course, from work. Not much but planning this weekend to go to the Sunday Defence area Market and pick up a few bargains. The weekend is sure to be hot, sunny and dusty like every other day this week so I'll make hte most of it cause when it rains every road is blocked and we all complain.

Great excitment as we have a chap coming out from UK on Tuesday for some work asignments. He is bring me my fishing rods, so, yes some more fishing stories coming up. Talking of which there is a very active Pakistan Game Fishing Association which is holding its annual sea fishing competition this weekend but I am not geared up for the trawling etc. Pity. Think I'll opt out this time.

Actually what I have been looking for to put on this Blog is a video of a camel pulling a cart. What you ask? Donkeys and carts are very common and I'm sure you can all visualise them but a camel. Well that's quite a different thing. I've seen three lots of them this week, each time when I was without a camera!!! '#$%^'. Tomorrow/Saturday that will change. I will, whatever it takes post a short camel and cart video. So watch out for Oscars 'al la Karachi' Coming shortly to a movie house near you!!!

Karachi Sometimes people just really surprise you

Went to work as usual but being Saturday in Ramadan there was not to much going on and with Wanna here its a good excuse to go home early. Well that's exactly what I did but decided to stop off at some shops on the way. For any of you reading this Blog you will know that I am planning on bringing my boat to Karachi till the end of my contract. Well it is finally looking like it will happen. To assist I need to do some purchases including a small generator and car stereo etc. So off to generator street, thousands of them for sale. A 750 watt petrol made in China will set you back about US$ 85. Uses 0.5 litres of fuel an hour. Idea for a spare source of power on the boat. So that's a purchasing job for my driver Qassir on Monday. He can shave a few more rupees off than me!!

Also the same for a car stereo. Near the port is a large electronic market selling all sorts of new and used gear, and I can get an in car DVD player with screen (new) for another US$ 80. Got home and told Wanna. Now she wants one for our truck. Think they are a good deal. Wondering round was great fun I ended up seeing parts of Karachi that I doubt most tourists could not ever imagine. Even watched a small 'confrontation' as two bus drivers in the middle of the afternoon heat could not quite see eye to eye. It was a tame sort of road rage but it was clear to me that there was a lot of self control being exercised otherwise I could envisage a blood bath. Being the middle of Ramadan must make it even harder to remain calm. We scurried off out of the way.

But I've kept the best till last. I went back to my fishing shop and met up with Abdul. He is a real cool guy. Sorted me out with a couple of new rods. And he also fixed my broken rod. I am sure and he assured me also however that these new ones will bring more luck!! Inshallah. Done deal. Went home.

An hour later my mobile rings. 'What now?!!!! #$%^&*' I'm thinking can't they at work see it is gone 5.00pm, work has finished.

"hello is that Mr Alan?",
"yes".
"good, this is Abdul from the fishing shop. You left your Visa Card behind. I've put it in the draw for you to collect."
"Thank you, thank you, see you Monday".

What a good end to the week and to have my limited faith in human nature moved up a notch or three. Thank you Abdul.

Having an evening at home tonight, watch Wales beat Fiji and afterwards intend to get all my planning organised for the trip from Seychelles to Karachi.

Evening Fishing

You've had the day fishing and night fishing and no fish. I know about time we caught something. Well this evening we did well.


Before hand of course there was the preplanning like buying some squid as bait etc. For that I went to the local Karachi fish market. That was unbelievable. It will be covered under a separate Blog in next few days


We set off and went to Defence area sea walls. The usual place. Having bought the fresh squid I thought we might get lucky. Only one of us was destined to get lucky and it was not me. Wanna picked up a couple of nice small ones and I got one bite (really it did!).


This time we also have the fish to prove it. Check attached photo. We had a couple of hours with Wanna fishing and catching fish and me throwing in the line in a never ending series of loosing casts. Enough said about my fishing. Wanna's catch is on film for prosperity.


Actually it was a really good and interesting evening. A Japanese chap turned up. (Without a camera...strange I know?). How do you know his is Japanese without a camera?..... Enough. Anyway we chatted that's how I knew he was Japanese. We were about to depart and go watch the World Cup Cricket final when he informed us his car was stuck in the sand. Needless to say we helped him. Took one hour to try and get him out of the sand till we finally realised he was well stuck. He would have to sort it out tomorrow. We lost a few (lots) minutes only getting back home in time to see the last 6 overs. Poor Pakistan.

Impress Market Karachi

Finished work early on Saturday and decided together with Wanna to visit the Impress Market. Sells everything or so we were told. To get there is easy, (take your driver!!!). Seriously just go to Saddar Market and there it is.

Set in old colonial buildings and outer squares it really has a beautiful setting. Looking round it is easy to imagine how it must have been all those years ago. Now it is all somewhat faded and in a state of decay but don't take anything away from it, for it has a fabulous atmosphere.

Having driven from work to the market we had to pass through street after street of shops full of traders all plying their wears. It was a bustle of activity with sellers, buyers, bystanders and onlookers everywhere. Dust and plastic bags seemed to follow them all the way. Thus on arriving in Impress Market it was like hitting an oasis. Great.

No sooner do you step out of the car then you realise you are in a different world. Stalls selling nuts, fruits, vegetables and all sorts of cooking utensils. Not only selling but all beautifully laid out so you become immediately attracted in each direction you look. Which path to take? Yet more decisions when all we wanted was a relaxing trip out for half an hour or so.

First stop on the way in was at a small stall where a chap was grinding coconuts for oil. No electrical machine for him. He had the mortar and pestle our and it was attached to his waist. He then walked round the pestle grinding the coconuts to make oil. Amazing. And he was so happy to have his picture taken. Of course we bought some coconut oil....

We ambled along from stall to stall, through alleyway to alleyway. No hassle, in fact no one was interested in us at all. And we did not get lost. I suppose really it is not that big a market just that the first time you are always a bit concerned as to where exactly you entered and just where you are going to exit!!

We had to buy something else so it seemed appropriate I bought some nuts!!! Interestingly 1 kilo of pistachio were 440 rupees. Last time I bought some near a local shop they were 700 rupees. Makes for another to like Impress Market.

We carried on wandering through the market and the range of products was great with such a wide variety of colours and smells. Colours were all bright and dazzling. The smells, well they covered the whole range of spices and fresh fruit and veg. Could not even name more that a handful of the spices.

But most noticeable were the flies. Everywhere they seemed to be in the way but no one seemed to notice or care. Everybody going about their business in a very calm and relaxed manner. I did not see anyone rushing. Shopping was made so easy. No supermarket trolleys but lots of people offering to carry your product and follow you from stall to stall and back to the car!!!!

We stayed for a while and decided we could easily come again and sit down taking in the atmosphere. I made a mental note to come back and find a quiet corner where I could sit take photos. Surely I will be able to capture come the vibrant colours to let you feel the sense the life and soul of Impress Market.

It was only on the drive home stuck in traffic that we felt we were of any interest to passers by. Stopped in traffic where a 'Tuk Tuk' driver was stationary and just stared at us. Not sure he even blinked. So we got a snap shot of him for the Blog as well.

My first Saturday in Karachi

Saturday morning and no work. Great. At last a chance to look round Karachi. I’ve got a small map from the lonely plant guide book. Not very details and the hotel one is even worse.

Having studied the map of down town Karachi I realised there were a lot of things to see. One thing clearly missing. Bars. There are no bars or clubs but what the hell, they can wait till next holiday making that beer all the more sweet when the time comes.

I decide to walk around. First the markets. The main on is Saddar Bazzar which is about 1 1/2 kilometres from the hotel. Easy to find just leave the hotel hang a right then a left!!!! Easy? And easy it was. Only thing to watch for was the traffic. As with all city centres it does not have a clear start or demarcation line but before you realise you are in the bazaars. If you needed directions the best advice is follow the dust. The whole place is dusty but the nearer the market the more the dust. Easy!!

It sells everything from pots and pans to outlandish plastic flowers and the ever present assortment of T shirts and jeans. It would not have been complete without the street hawkers selling ‘genuine ray bans’ and fabulous ‘Rolex’ watches.

There was one block of shops that specialised in leather coats and sheep skin jackets. Really good quality. You can pick up a decent leather jacket for about 100US$.

Then there are the gold shops. If there was one there were 100 all selling the same type of jewellery. The gold is that bright yellow colour you associate with Middle East gold. And no I did not check the prices.

But what is a bazzar without these things. All part of it right. I wondered thought a range of streets some small some pedestrian only. One of the first things you notice if the lack of women. I’ll rephrase that to the ‘absence of women”…

The few I did see were pretty. The ones covered in black from top to bottom..? Well they could be attractive underneath it all but I did not get to see...

The walking in the sun and heat and the ever present dust made me want of a long cold beer. I fancied finding some shady place, some little hidden away bar of café where I could sit down and watch the world go by. Not to be. No beer and no hidden away café. So next best thing was to get myself a cool fresh orange juice at a street sided stall. You know what? It was great! Took Abdul about 5 minutes to hand crush the oranges and make me a long cool drink. You know what? It was good, very good but did not quite make t to being as good as a cold beer!

Then I sat at the juice bar, juice in hand people watching. I don’ for one minute think I fooled anyone that I was a local just watching the world go by but it was fun and totally hassle free. The place, it never stopped, people rushing from one place to another, jumping on and of busses and constantly haggling on the price of whatever they were after. The whole place is a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds and the smells. Almost a totally new range of sensations.

The people and the shops with all their bright colours to the busses painted in very colour of the rainbow. I got to wondering just how long does it take to paint a bus. Years surely?

It was such a wide range of smells for deep fry to fragment curries and spices and that sort of mixed humanity that comes for some many people together.

Anyway enough of the sitting I’ve go to go. When I set out this morning I had given myself 3 hours max as this afternoon is apartment hunting.

And last but not least Karachi Supreme Court. Be good!!!