Empress Market Part 5

Nearly there. We've completed the shooting including the coffee scenes for the 'before and after' the market shoots. Poor Fahim! It is now down to him to complete the editing. He is going to try and get it done this coming week. We should have one more meeting together and then hopefully close it out and submit to Dawn Newspaper. Now, I'm not to concerned if we win or just get an acknowledgement that we participated in their competition. Its been fun and we can do some more films over the coming months. Today we had Fahim, Wanna, Qaiser and myself all geared up for these final shots. Went well. Emad, Khalids son also joined in.
Today we had two cameras so there was scope for some more sophisticated filming. Well that was the plan at least. Having two cameras we then needed two camera operators. , Both are in the photos below. Emad in the blue jeans and Ahmad, one of the waiters. All good fun. Good luck Fahim! See you next Thursday/Friday.

Waiting for the Train

It's been a quiet week on the reporting front. In fact a quiet month. I did go to a music night with Khalid last Saturday, but, took such lousy photos they did not warrent posting.
Today work has also been quiet, and so I took time out to sort through a few files and came across some movie clips. This one seems just so typical of Karachi.

Ormara and a night out from Karachi

This is a longer post than most as I went away for the weekend. Lot to write about.
This was my second trip to Ormara. Ahmad had decided we should make it an over night one and so give us a bit of time for a spot of fishing. Official reason for the trip was to undertake a site visit to the naval base and check on some ongoing ground improvement works. Can't tell you about that or I'll get shot!
Mujtaba joined us for the trip so there was plenty of chatter and banter on the way down. Who will get the biggest fish etc. And indeed who got the biggest one last time. I was not bothered I knew I had got and was going to get the biggest one tomorrow.
Ormara, lies about 350 kilometers west of Karachi. It is a small fishing village, existing on a short spit of sand perpendicular to the coast and running out to sea sea with a mud cliff ‘hammer' head at the end. Difficult to describe so I’ve added a Google photo, and believe me it is spectacular. The whole area comprises soft mud/sandstone hence the peculiar layered effect on the mountains, brought about by the wind erosion. Quite spectacular. The problem with taking photos of it all that is it so vast there is no sense of depth and the extent of the plains and mountains is lost in a small 4x5 print!! However, I did try, and actually found that a movie is probably better, as there is some movement in the frames, and this lends itself to giving some sense of scale. The other problem with taking photos was the Navy. No photos allowed!! So my trip up the hill to base camp etc, all interesting, but no printed memories.
So after starting off from Karachi around 10.30am we made our way along the main highway and had our first stop at a road side ‘cafe’. (Actually it's the only road side café for about 100 kilometers either way!!) And there were only 4 other customers. We ordered some tea and Nan bread with chana (peas to you!). The Nan bread was baked fresh as we waited. It was good, very good. The cafe is located against a spectacular view over looking the sea and a fabulous mountain back drop. Amazing looking round this area and the only mess is caused by man. Plastic bags and litter etc. If you avoid seeing it, then, the place is quiet simply fantastic.

Back on the road. Its a long road, part long and straight and some windy and reaching 2000+ meters above sea level. I've added a short clip to give you some idea of the rugged terrain and maybe provide some sense of scale and vastness of the area. Ahmad had some CD's from John Denver so I've used one track to remind me of the flavour of the trip!! Next time I'll ask him to add Pakistani music to the Cd player.

Well Ormara once there is a small dusty place and seems to exist mainly on fishing and small shops supplying local demand. The demands have increased as a result to the Navy being present. You can buy just about anything and its amazing when you look at the short video and see nothing but a really basic village. I bought a new car charger for a nokia phone!!
Whiskey, Gin and Vodka are also available if you know who to ask. A 1.5 litre bottle is about 1,500 Rupees. Fantastic value as the same in Karachi is going for about 3,500 Rupees or more. It depend on who you know, as you won't find it in a shop! I was sure there was no way I was going to find anyone to sell it to me without a good introduction. Need good contacts. I was told it is smuggled in from Iran. So some stops off in Ormara and the rest makes its way to Karachi. Iran is only about 300 kilometers away! I think I could with such assistance while away a few evenings in Ormara!!! I'll sort it out for the next trip.

The village is not much to write home about but you really need to see to arrive at that conclusion if you follow my meaning. Not sure even I follow it!! Its full of little shops all selling small scale items.

Well, we had a walk through. (I seem to be adding a lot of video this post!)

Mujtaba then showed me round the area where they were making fishing boats. (I've added it into this posting as it is all part and parcel of my trip to Ormara).

They make wooden boats in Ormara, in the same way that their fathers and forefathers did. The wood is not local, but imported from up country. It is generally of poor quality. Nor is it properly cured so the bending and shaping depends to a large extent on the shape of the original wood pieces.

Tools comprise a manual saw, hand turned drill (bow and arrow) and an arris for rough cutting and shaping. And a hammer to drive in the nails. (steel nails no less, not copper nails). They will not use an electric drill, stating that it will burn the wood..... Go figure....

Interestingly the general shape is good. I had Mujtaba take a close look and make a professional judgement. Seems all OK.

....Till next time....

Camels - Ships of the "desert' on the streets of Karachi

I've been away and having only got back last Sunday seem now to have woken up. Now its Friday and I've done nothing. Nothing towards the Video project, or writing any Blog entries. Could be I've been asleep for 3 days. Bit like going on a heavy whiskey diet and loosing 3 days! I now know what it feels like without the hangover...

Well today I was off around town catching up on a few things. And I was lucky. I've been trying to get a short movie of a Camel working in Karachi. They are here used like donkeys for hauling stuff around town. They've been banned on several streets so, not a common sight. I jumped out of the car and was happy to get this quick chance to snap a short video. Its a bit dark but am now downloading some software to improve it. So if interested check back later.

Cricket Pakistan Style

Had a wonderful evening watching Twenty 20 Cricket with Pakistan and Bangladesh. Pakistan were showing within the first over why they are so much better then their neighbours.

We were in the main stand next to the pavilion and possibly had the best views. The most famous of Pakistan Cricket supporters Chacha "Uncle' Cricket as he is known, was on hand to cheer everyone on. In fact when not playing the crowd he was seated about 3 rows behind us. He found time to come over and have a chat!!! Story has it that ages ago (and he is old!!) one of the former Prime Ministers had seen him in full fling waving the Pakistan flag at local matches and was so impressed by his enthusiasm that he made him an 'honnary' ambassador flying him to the Pakistan international matches. Very nice and lovable gentlemen. Meeting him really added to making the evening.

Half time i.e. between Pakistan and Bangladesh batting we were serenaded by a female singer, Hadiqa Kiyani. Made all the young bucks shout and get excited for a bit of fun which only added to the atmosphere.

Additional reporting by Dawn was....

Misbah shines as Pakistan trounce BD: Twenty20 International
By Khalid H. Khan

KARACHI, April 20: Pakistan emerged as comfortable victors in the first-ever Twenty20 International played on home soil as they thrashed Bangladesh by a crushing margin of 102 runs at the National Stadium here on Sunday.Despite a bright start provided by openers Tamim Iqbal and Nazimuddin, who added 41 in 5.4 overs, the next 10.2 overs saw the visitors destined to lose their last eight wickets for 16 runs in six overs as they folded up for 101 in 16 overs, while chasing a daunting target of 204 under lights.Apart from Nazimuddin, who was seventh out for a 48-ball 42, which included three sixes, the abject surrender from the Bangladesh batsmen disappointed a holiday crowd of around 10,000 who found more entertainment during the 30-minute break between the innings as pop singer Hadiqa Kiyani performed live in front of the main pavillion.

Office day out

Our Engineers and staff team decided on a day out and organised for . Cosy Water Park It's about 45 minutes out of Karachi, so I was told. Easy, so we set off to join everyone. 2 hours later we finally found it!!! Miles out of Karachi, in what can only be described as desert/shrub land. Not one road sign indicating where is was all the way along the 30 kilometers of Super highway!

(Photos from Cosy Park Web page)
Anyway we made it. Place has several pools and some high level slides. When we arrived the team had organised a shaded area, placed out the matting and ordered the biryanies. So far so good. It was a hot day in the low 30's and dry. Middle of a desert really. Once up on the slides you could see for miles and it was only adjacent to the area that there was any greenery. In its way very spectacular.

I even managed to brave the big slide and come out intact!

Sunday in Karachi

Went to work for a few hours and then decided to visit St Patricks Church. It was build in 1878 according to the plaque on the outside wall. Now a Sindh Government Protected Heritage Protected Building. However for all that, it was closed! Well it was 1.30 pm when I got there so I suppose, Mass having been held at 6.00am, 8.30 am and scheduled again for the evening it has probably been open enough. However the sun was out and the light seemed about right for a few shots. On the way there I tried a short movie. The streets of Saddar even in the market areas are quiet on Sundays as you can see. I've made myself a list of places to see and things to do over the next few months, including visiting the largest mosque in Karachi, couple of holy tombs, some palaces, a fort in Hyderabad and such like.

'Choppers' or are they Huwies?

Having spend a small fortune on a model helicopter whilst in UK and managed to get it safely back to Karachi I decided to give it a bash outside our Condo to see if it really worked. Hand carried it in my brief case no less. That's enthuasism for you. On the way out I had expected to be stopped at Heathrow. We were including scanner, then a take your shoes off job. Never ending... Given all this and the extraordinary lengths they go to just to make travel even more uncomfortable I had expected at the very least to have had it taken off me. That's is my helicopter. So happy surprise all round when I just carried it through without any stops or queries. I rushed back to our Condo. Practiced for at least 5 minutes in doors (why ....to become an expert of course) before venturing out. Truth is that flying a chopper is not that easy. It was also windy out there… Obviously need a lot more 'in house' practice before I venture out. Still it is a bit of fun for me a few spectators. Not sure they realized it was supposed to fly and given my performance they probably still don't.

Dinner at LalQila

We had a really great evening with Khalid and his wife, joined by Ian and Aldo. We started out by all meeting up at Khalid's house. Sat ourselves down and started chatting away. Before long Aldo and Khalids son had got the guitars out and were starting a jamming session.
Finally we dragged Aldo away and we went to the very well know Restaurant http://www.lalqila.com/ on Shisa Faisal. Its styled on an open air Fort with towers and moats etc. Beautifully lit with backdrops etc.
The whole place is set up as a buffet with a wide assortment of Pakistan food obviously from all the regions. There was whole section devoted to Bar B Q chicken, mutton, steaks etc. Then a separate deep frying area for prawns, fish and again areas for curries, Dal's and salads. And last but not least were the sweets. Whole range of European goodies and fantastic local ice cream.. Khalid did explain how it was made but to be honest I was too busy eating it to listen closely!!
As a finale Khalid had ordered a cake which he had presented to Aldo. It arrived with the waiters (all dressed up in medieval type costume in keeping with the 'Fort' ambiance). Great idea.
The evening closed out with hot coffee. It was very cold evening so after freezing on the outside followed by cold ice cream the coffee was very welcome.
On our way out we had some "Pann". Its a local mixture of spices and dried bits rolled in a fresh leaf. About teaspoon full in size. You eat it and it gives a very very good mouth cleansing taste and feeling. Really finishes off a good evening with friends. Obvious really good 'cause after that you can kiss everyone goodbye with good breath!!!!

Fly Fishing

Great day out last Sunday at Kalari Lake with friends.

That's enough fishing stories for a few posting!!

The Cricket Season is upon us

Ramadan has been plodding along with the work rate dropping daily. Mine included, and I'm still drinking the same amounts of tea each day! So when I learnt that South Africa were to start a 5 day International test match against Pakistan yesterday I was a bit surprised to say the least.

This I had to see. So picked up Wanna and rushed round to Khalid's house to collect him and off we went. Main Karachi stadium is in the middle of Karachi. Nice, big, plenty of open areas and very few spectators. Seating was easy after Khalid sweet talked our way in for nothing.

We stayed for a few (10-12) overs and thoroughly enjoyed it. Back today at the office I was busy editing the photos and getting ready for this upload when over my left shoulder I heard a voice 'that's Mohammad Hafiz doing the bowling'. How Islah my draftsman knows that, I cannot tell, and the guy Mohammad was over 150 meters away. You can be the judge.....is it him?

Staple Pakastani Food

Few meals are complete in Pakistan without Chapattis. The lovely fresh unleven bread cooked in hot baking ovens. only takes a few minutes and the smell. Wonderful. Goes great with just about anything. Great rice substitute. Look below as I said only a few minutes. The clip is only 40 seconds long and during this time out come 2 chapattis.

Building works Site Offices

Not a very exciting week. Focus locally in the office as been on Pakistan politics with the recent sacking of the Chief Justice and the position of the President in relation to all this. There has only to some degree, any talk about Cricket and the related news of the death of Bob Woolmar. Back to that later.

Work is going well. Various Contracts have been signed up this week and Contractors are on busy moving onto site. All exciting stuff for me. Hence we need our offices soonest.

Now I figured you guys would like some more video. Well not really I know it's the last thing you need right now! Truth is I fancied just adding one more! (and one more and one more later....) Now I know the system works for video so you can all relax, sit back and enjoy even i fit means putting up with some 'rough cuts'.

The video is about the site offices which are under preparation. I did add in a couple of photos to one of my earlier Blogs when I first got to Karachi. Did you bother to read it?... We're refurbishing that old building which was in the photos. We and partitioning the main room to make a couple of new offices and main office area. Also sprucing up the kitchen and toilets. Might even get a western toilet if we are lucky. Asian ones are fine but from my experience westerners find them a bit close to the ground (can easily loose mobile phones as well!) and we need some practice on in siting down but in the getting up!! (sorry about that added attention to detail but it helps gets the job done!!)

We will be housing a team of about 15 persons so we need the room and we need them now!!!



Well you've read the Blog, seen the movie and now you decide. Will the completion of the building works be completed by next week. When completed you can join me of a visual coffee in my office! Milk and sugar anyone?

Adding video

This last week has flown by. It started on Monday and somewhere I've lost Tues through Thursday. Then it was Friday evening. Never mind things did seem to get done in the office. No major events to report there. In fact I ma keping away from work topics as much as possible and focusing on the general Karachi stuff.

Today I went shopping. Bought some fruits and veg to keep me going next week. Also bought a few DVD's. All copies of course. They are only 90PKR each. That's 75 pence for a new latest movie. Have already watched Blood Diamonds and Open Water 2. I do not have any real scruples about buying copies. The arguement that Companies loose money from piracy is not so strong. Taking into account the avarage Pakistan monthly income is around 100US$ I cannot see a lot of people buying DVD's? even when copied. But leave this agruement alone for now.

Anyway having earlier added in a clip from 'You Tube' to my Blog I've decided to go brave and add a movie of my own. On the way home I took a few shots through the car window. Nothing much but it was a first, for me at least, to do an uploaded movie clip. I've just spent about 2 hours on this and 'cracked it'. Usual thing, once you know it is so soooo simple.

It is just a set of joined clips from my trip home from the shops. No music or proper sound added as yet. Doubt there is anything in the style or content to worry the likes of Clint Eastwood or other producers. Hollywood and Bollywood can rest easy.

Karachi Video

Fantastic find. Captures the flavour of Karachi. Many thanks to 'Tamjidaijazi' at You Tube