Old graves and mosques and stuff

Been advised to spend our Sunday on a trip to see a few of the sights on the outskirts of Karachi. There are so we are told simply thousands upon thousands of important graves that have to be seen. And of course lakes and mosques and sights of life along the way.

With Qassir our Driver, Wanna and I set off about 9 am and picked up Ian to join us on our magical mystery tour. I say that it was magical as we only know the names of places where we were going but no idea where they were. In fact having been there we still don't know!!! All in all about a 200 kilometer trip.

First stop was just out side of town. Place called Chucandia where they have an old grave yard with fabulous tombs intricately carved. All seemed to be made of sandstone but somehow I think it was a harder stone given that it had survived the ages so well. Each tomb reflected the wealth of the person placed below. This was measured by the size of the tomb. Several were impressive. But just the art work was good. We were asked by the custodian Ali Doni to fill in the guest book. Surprise, only 2 days earlier there have been a Thai visitor. So Wanna entered some comments in Thai. Never did get an explanation of what exactly she wrote.

From there we left Karachi proper and headed out in a North East direction. It was a hot day 34Deg C and seemed to be getting hotter. Thank God for Air conditioning.

We travelled to Bambhore. It has a small museum filled with old artifacts found locally. Seems there was a big Dig around 1958. Not really much to see and the whole area had an air of the 1950's. We wondered about and took a few shots but really not much to see. Just seemed to get hotter and hotter. Several other visitors kept coming up to us and asking "where are you from?". I said UK and pointed to Ian said his real name is David Beckham. They left us alone after that and concentrated on Ian!

From there we moved on to Hilji Lake. A lovely spot with a huge lake. About 15 kilometers perimeter. Few people about but some were fishing, others selling fish and hustling for our rupees. A few kids wanted to spend the afternoon staring at us so again a quick photo. Looked at some caged Marsh Crocodiles and then left. Not much to hold your interest to be fair. So off again.

Stopping on the road side for tea. Some of the trucks passing by were carrying enormous loads. Think the cargo was grass but so wide and so tall. Quite a sight. I expected to see them fall over at any

moment. On the way passed several herds of Buffalo.

Malki graveyards was something else. Full of snake charmers and some fantastic buildings, again tombs, left in honour of past Kings and Prime Ministers. (Don't ask which ones!). Took loads of photos and really enjoyed.

On the way back we saw tomorrows dinner being trucked into Karachi.

Impress Market Karachi

Finished work early on Saturday and decided together with Wanna to visit the Impress Market. Sells everything or so we were told. To get there is easy, (take your driver!!!). Seriously just go to Saddar Market and there it is.

Set in old colonial buildings and outer squares it really has a beautiful setting. Looking round it is easy to imagine how it must have been all those years ago. Now it is all somewhat faded and in a state of decay but don't take anything away from it, for it has a fabulous atmosphere.

Having driven from work to the market we had to pass through street after street of shops full of traders all plying their wears. It was a bustle of activity with sellers, buyers, bystanders and onlookers everywhere. Dust and plastic bags seemed to follow them all the way. Thus on arriving in Impress Market it was like hitting an oasis. Great.

No sooner do you step out of the car then you realise you are in a different world. Stalls selling nuts, fruits, vegetables and all sorts of cooking utensils. Not only selling but all beautifully laid out so you become immediately attracted in each direction you look. Which path to take? Yet more decisions when all we wanted was a relaxing trip out for half an hour or so.

First stop on the way in was at a small stall where a chap was grinding coconuts for oil. No electrical machine for him. He had the mortar and pestle our and it was attached to his waist. He then walked round the pestle grinding the coconuts to make oil. Amazing. And he was so happy to have his picture taken. Of course we bought some coconut oil....

We ambled along from stall to stall, through alleyway to alleyway. No hassle, in fact no one was interested in us at all. And we did not get lost. I suppose really it is not that big a market just that the first time you are always a bit concerned as to where exactly you entered and just where you are going to exit!!

We had to buy something else so it seemed appropriate I bought some nuts!!! Interestingly 1 kilo of pistachio were 440 rupees. Last time I bought some near a local shop they were 700 rupees. Makes for another to like Impress Market.

We carried on wandering through the market and the range of products was great with such a wide variety of colours and smells. Colours were all bright and dazzling. The smells, well they covered the whole range of spices and fresh fruit and veg. Could not even name more that a handful of the spices.

But most noticeable were the flies. Everywhere they seemed to be in the way but no one seemed to notice or care. Everybody going about their business in a very calm and relaxed manner. I did not see anyone rushing. Shopping was made so easy. No supermarket trolleys but lots of people offering to carry your product and follow you from stall to stall and back to the car!!!!

We stayed for a while and decided we could easily come again and sit down taking in the atmosphere. I made a mental note to come back and find a quiet corner where I could sit take photos. Surely I will be able to capture come the vibrant colours to let you feel the sense the life and soul of Impress Market.

It was only on the drive home stuck in traffic that we felt we were of any interest to passers by. Stopped in traffic where a 'Tuk Tuk' driver was stationary and just stared at us. Not sure he even blinked. So we got a snap shot of him for the Blog as well.

Snake Charmer

Sometimes you have to wonder about life. At lunch time I went with Khalid for a really good Byrannii. (Spelling?...) Outside the restaurant there were snake charmers. I decided I would come back on Saturday and show Wanna. So got home and having a beer on the veranda we looked down. Would you believe it a snake charmer. Stop the beer and jump into the lift. Down we rushed to the ground floor to take a few photos. The snake guy seemed really relaxed and even more surprising was the kid with him. After the 2 minute show the little kid just picked up the snake and played with him like a puppy.


Good to see and unbelievable that at only lunch time I was thinking of the same thing and it turns up on your front door.

Life outside karachi

For those of you who read this. Yes there is life outside of Karachi!

Ian a colleague and I went to Nooribad yesterday. It was a work trip but we stopped and took a few photos etc. Good trip. It/s about 1 1/2 hours north of Karachi by car. Mainly in a flat arid area with clear signs that there are annual floods and not much else.


Did not get to take any good pictures, only those shown here. But you can get the general idea. There were also a couple (thousands) of mosques along the way and we stopped to again take photos. Not my day. Seemed I pressed all the wrong buttons and they came out black and white!!

Ian managed to get some good shots. I'll have to try harder.

Weekend away in Bangkok

Decided to have a day off work and got to visit Wanna in Bangkok. I left Karachi on the 2.30 am flight. Horrible time to fly as you seem to be waiting for the time to board so you can get on the plane and sleep.


Arrived in Suvarnambumi airport. Met by Wanna and Phuk. Straight to Bangkok to check the condos. They are about 30 percent build. No rush for completion as I am not sure how we are going to pay when its ready!!!


Then to lunch just across the road with our very good friend Khun Prathan. Had our usual fried rice and cold tea. It was good to catch up and hear the news. After that we needed to go to the Pakistan Embassy to get Wanna's visa. By now I'm getting tired. Sort of jet lag of lack of sleep. So get the visa and then off to do some quick shopping. We bought some 'crocs' shoes. Sort of plastic clogs. Verrrry comfortable. About 20 pounds a pair.


Then down to Pattaya for the weekend. Only down side was that on Beach road 'crocs' well copies of 'crocs' are only 3 pounds!!


Sunday arrived too quickly and it is back to reality and sunny Karachi. Yes sunny which is great. The rains seem to have gone away.

Cyclones in Karachi

There has been a lot in the news recently about the weather. Strong winds and heavy rain. Seems really that most of it passed us by. I know a lot of people died but difficult to grasp the whole picture. Any loss of life is sad.

You can see from the attached map we just missed the main part. Seems carried on to UK. Well I'm off to Thailand tonight and hope the weather there is going to be OK.

Leather factory

I had a super afternoon yesterday. Visited Shehzad's leather factory.
Met up with his brother and a Spaniard called Antonio and shared lunch together.

Shehzad has a good business buying in coarse leather and converting it into high quality material for shoes and handbags etc. He buys in the leather after it has under gone its first treatment. That's really the first chemical treatment after the skinning and the initial cleaning.

He then treats it, colours it and can produce it to any standard required. Soft, hard, thin, thick etc. All seemed easy when he explains it but me I had no real idea. We then went to his chemical factory. He makes the leather softening creams we put on shoes etc. All in all a good day out. The photos show the rough leather being brought in to his yard by donkey cart and of ht chemical factory renovation.

Moving and moving on

The title sounds a bit philosophical but bear with me. I've been in Karachi for 4 months (I know you've read my Blogs). But chatting to Dad tonight I confirmed my real thoughts and ideas and made a decision to bring my boat to Karachi and live on it. Why pay rent when all I want to do is live on a boat...

It seems so obvious and easy. Just get someone to sail it up here and I can live aboard. Better than the condo and far better than being tied up (pun) with rent etc etc. So decision time tomorrow. Few calls to Seychelles coming up and then we can move on. I am off to Thailand this weekend and then Seychelles in August. (unrelated note:- Need to check I catch up with Sarah my No 1 before she disappears off to Uni end of August).

But back to the main point this posting. Getting the boat here should be easy. Steve the chap looking after it is a good Captain and know the ropes etc. (another pun). He also knows my boat.

So big day tomorrow... I'll be on the phone and see what I can organise. About time I made a stand and stopped blaming everyone else. Maybe this is what I've been waiting for. And in Karachi if I have no power on my boat I cannot blame the system anymore.

Will post tomorrow with real positive news for sure!

And the weeks fly by (again....)

I've said it before time is really flying Karachi. This last few weeks has been no exception. If anything its getting faster. I finally managed to go and get my Play Station fixed. Khalid kindly took me to a shop where they insert the 'copy chip'. This lets me play any copy software. Great excitement.The shop gave me a new night racer car game. Seemed simple enough just go as fast as possible from A to B. Right.... Give it a go.. I tried 3 times and did it in just under 9 mins 53 secs. Few scrapes and crashes on the way. World best? Was I the new Lewis Hamilton of the world wide net game family? No chance the machine was expecting 1 minutes something to do the circuit. Clearly a long way to go to catch up with Mr Lewis. I'll practice this weekend and let you know how it goes. (Slowly is my guess!)

Well tomorrow no work. Planning on a quiet lunch and an evening having a few beers at the British Club.

Electiric cars Karachi style

Forget the Detroit's and hybrid cars. We read about all this day in day out. But here in the developing world of Karachi, residents have taken the lead and show example with the introduction of electric cars. Yes electric powered cars as seen on TV, but adapted to meet local ways.

Not just cars but Taxis. Helping highlight the environmental issues to the public so they understand the dangers of global warming and showing how making every little effort helps. These Eco friendly vehicles, running on roof mounted petrol generators are providing the solution much sought after in the developed world. Easy to install and run. Just buy a generator and strap it on the roof. Fill with petrol and off you go. That's what you call an electric car Karachi style.

These 'electric taxis' are often to be seen cruising done the boulevards of Karachi picking up customers and providing the public service so required and showing what can be done by individuals with initiative wanting to make a difference and help the environment. (Check the photo, source Khalid Munir).

Hey give these guys credit, they know how to meet the challenges of global warming and avoid using petrol whilst becoming Eco friendly. (Am I serious?.....)

Just look at the new Pakistan Eco Electric Car. The way to go. Henry Ford would have been proud. Pass on this information to your friends. Next time in Karachi make sure you go electric......

Is it Sunday or is it 'Power Cut' day ?

Plan of the day. Decided I would have a 'sort of private working day' as the is office is empty. Thought if I go in there I'll get no disturbances I'll maybe get something useful done.

8.00 am I'm up, watered and fed. And already a power cut. So off to work. Not much better there with no generator. What next. Church and caught the second half of Mass in English.

Went home and again a power cut. So read the 'For rent' section of the newspaper. Not sure I've the energy for moving but somewhere with a generator does have a strong appeal. Lucky I've got gas for making my coffee. So coffee in one hand and 'For rent' section of the Dawn paper in the other. Settle myself down comfortably and start circling in the good sounding ads. I don't believe it only 30 minutes back home and the power is off again. Its only off for another 30 minutes so not to bad. Will make some calls in the morning for sure.

Power back on and I decided work can wait till tomorrow. The powers that be, (pun) are clearly telling me not to use computers for work on a Sunday. So now you can see instead how I spent my time revamping my Blog. Also managed to chat with Wanna and caught up with the girls in Seychelles and Clarance over in California.

Also had a scout round some of the editing support of my Blog server. I fancy setting up some form of RSS. Whats that? Well that's exactly what I am trying to find out as well. Second question What for? Same answer That's exactly what I am trying to find out as well. When I know I'll pass it on.

I'd best get this posted before another power cut.

The last supper

Wanna left in the early hours of Wednesday morning so Tuesday evening we went for dinner to the Bar B Q tonight. We had been before with Nazia my Land Lady. But but this just the two of us. Romantic evening!! Not really we got there only to find a bunch of the Chinese Contractors team also having a meal. Said our hellos and left them to it. But it was interesting of all the places in Karachi they chooses where we were. Must be a good sign. But we had been to a Chinese restaurant the night before. Not so good. Apparently Chinese food is becoming very popular in Karachi but what we had was a 'sort of' Chinese food. Much prefer Wanna's stir frys.

We had a super grilled rib of lamb and salads and homos. The place really knows how to cater just check the photos. Racks and racks of food. Washed down with water. Yes Lloyd drinking water!!! Well it was that or Coke. No competition really. The best part we we walked from and back to our apartment. Only about 500-600 meters but enough to enjoy and so much better that being delivered everywhere in a car. We felt the hot humid air from the sea and smelled the various fragrances from the local cooking. Also managed to avoid several 'blind' drivers who were trying to avoid the same pot holes as us!!! Well they should have seen us!

It was a good calm end to Wanna last visit. Now I will settle down to work and plan to get to Thailand at the end of the Month. Will keep you posted.

Our trip to Gaddani Home of scrapped ships

We decide to have a Sunday venturing out of Karachi. The Lonely Planet Guide is good for ideas but we decided to visit Balochistan the next province about 30 kilometers west of Karachi. Why ? Well the Lonely Plant for one says no one goes there!!!! Good enough reason for me to go. Its a tough place. It has a harsh and very dry terrain and the clearly from the history and having to live in such conditions makes people are fiercely independent. We decided to go with our driver and visit the ship grave yards of Gaddani. Famous for the ships that are run up the beaches and then scrapped piece by piece by cheap labour. It is out of bounds to foreigners. But we decided to try anyway. Sure enough it was out of bounds. The police guarding the road were good they rang back to Karachi to see if we could pass. We were told very helpfully, please next time you come bring a policeman from Karachi along for the next trip and it should be OK. It is apparently an environmental disaster area. (www.msnbc.msn.com/id/3674428/ )

So we left and stopped at another police station to see if we could visit Hub Dam. Seemed a good idea to check. Well good job as it was the same answer. We did not get a great deal of photo opportunities on this trip. One of the police station which looks more like a fort and the second of a squashed bus. Dread to think what happened there.

Shopping in the Market

Saturday. Off to work as usual but this time had promised to take Wanna shopping to the Market. Actually went to buy some cotton to cover the seats in the lounge. Wanna is convinced they need covers due to all the dust in the air. So we had a good walk round and found what we wanted. Had a Pizza then home. No power. Usual 2 hour power cut which fortunately I normally miss as I’m at work where we’ve got a generator!

Dinner with the Colonel

Last night saw us go to the house of Colonel Ramzan for dinner. We met his wife and two daughters, Sons were out working. Had an enjoyable evening chatting about life in general. We had a few whiskeys and excellent food. On the way home I told my driver that I would not be going to work as the usual 08.00am but would go at 09.00am "OK Boss, Thank you Boss, Good, Night Boss'" So I assumed he had got the message.

07.00am next morning I look outside the Condo. There he is cleaning the car. So I decided if he's here and I'm up I'll go to work. "Qassir what are you doing here so early?" "Well Boss I worked for other foreigners before and when they drink in the evenings they say things that the next morning they forget. I did not want to turn up at 09.00 and find you also had forgotten the instruction and complain to me that I was not there by 08.00 as normal". No answer to that one so off to work at 08.00am as usual.